Hey everyone, it has been a long time since my last blog so I figured it was about time to put a new one up. A couple weeks ago I was given the opportunity to do a seminar on Time Lapse photography. Needless to say I was pretty excited. So after a couple months of prepping and research further into the subject I came up a fairly in-depth outline that would help most anybody with some experience in video editing and photography shoot some time lapses of their own. So here it is the thick and heavy main outline from my seminar. If you read through it all (or just scroll through it all) you will be rewarded with the 2nd sneak peak to my first time lapse compilation call Light and Time - The Beautiful Dance.
I. Introduce Subject – To Introduce this subject let me ask a few questions and then answer them.
A. What is Time Lapse Photography?
1. a technique whereby the frequency at which film frames are captured at much lower rates than that used to view the sequence. When played at normal speed, time appears to be moving faster and thus lapsing.
B. Do I use different camera settings when shooting a time lapse?
1. Yes we will get to that soon.
C. What do I need to shoot a time lapse?
1. We will cover the gear in depth soon.
D. What are some of the different styles of time lapse?
1. Standard
a) Easiest of them all. All you need is a steady place for the camera to sit, a good composition, good exposure, and a constant interval between shots and you're set to go
b) Example Video
2.
HDR (High
Dynamic Range
a) A step above the standard. Requires a little more technical know how and special software to process the images.
b) More on that later.
c) Example Video
3. Motion Control Time Lapse (Think camera moving while shooting the time lapse)
a) A lot more complex. Requires greater technical expertise. And expensive equipment and/or software
b) I will explain in detail later.
c) Example Video
4. Hyperlapse (Think motion control but hyper)
a) Equally hard just that this will take more handy work then technical know how. More to come on that.
b) Example Video
5. Long Term (Long Time)
a) Requires a DIY custom or prefabricated rig so highly technical and so on but dramatic for season change and so on.
b) Essentially all you need is a way to isolate your camera from the elements, a specialized intervalometer, a way to keep your camera powered and a place to put it where it won’t be disturbed.
c) Won’t cover more on this but there is more info on these in the resources of my full outline resources
d) Example Video
E. What are some good things to capture in a time lapse?
1. Sunrise/Sunsets
2. People Moving
3. Stars/Trails
4. Milky Way
5. Aurora Borealis
6. Water Movement
7. Seasons
F. How do I make all these photos into a video?
1. You need a computer program that can shorten the display time of a frame of video. We will discuss this more in depth later. Though I will limit the amount of coverage as I mostly want to focus on how to shoot a time lapse.
G. Couldn't I just take a long video and speed that up?
1. Short answer yes.
2. Long answer you limit the length of time lapsed, the quality, the storage space efficiency, the depth of post processing ability, and use less battery thus less recharge time.
II. What You Will Need If You Want To Shoot A Time-Lapse
A. Gear you will need
1. A camera that can be set to manual exposure (shutter, aperture, ISO, and White Balance), manual focus, and either has a built in intervalometer or can be hooked up to one.
2. A tripod that will support your cameras weight and will not easily be moved by wind.
3. An intervalometer that is made for your camera if your camera does not already have one built in.
4. Computer capable of doing video editing.
B. Gear you may want ($=$30-$50, $$=~$100, $$$=$300-800, $$$$=>$800)
1. A wide or ultra wide angle lens. $$$-$$$$ (Preferably with a wide max aperture for night time lapses)
2. Neutral Density Filters $$ (a cheaper option is welding glass check the link under resources)
3. Circular Polarizer Filter $
4. Motion Control System $$$$
5. Long Term Time Lapse Rig $$
6. Photo editing software that can batch edit $$ (Adobe Lightroom)
7. Advanced Video Editing Software $$-$$$$ (Adobe Premiere Pro, Final Cut, Sony Vegas, etc.,)
III. Setting Up A Camera For A Standard Time Lapse
A. Get there early. No matter what kind of time lapse or how many times you have shot a time lapse like this one before, be early! Be there an hour early. It will take you time to find the right composition, find the best camera settings for the shot. Set your intervalometer to the right setting do a couple test shots and so on. The last thing you want to do is be in a rush and waste an entire time-lapse because you forgot to set something right.
B. Find the best shot. Take your time. Don't immediately assume the first angle you find is the best. Make it interesting, you want an interesting foreground for any motion in the sky, use the rule of thirds, framing, leads, and so on to make it interesting. Most importantly you want motion. Something should be moving or changing.
C. Set up your tripod make sure it is stable. If it's not it may cost you more than just a wasted TL session.
1. Set-up your camera triple check to make sure you have all your settings right. Think image clarity and consistent exposure. High aperture values are best (when light allows) keeping in mind that digital cameras hit a diffraction limit. Finding your lens's sweet spot is easy it just takes a little research (dxomark.com or slrgear.com).
2. Shutter speed is another important factor. You want a slow speed to create motion blur for smooth video. If you pause a movie during fast action you will notice a slight blur to the image. Having a high aperture value will make this easier as it will cut down on light. But that might not be enough. In some cases you may want to invest in some ND filters to block some of that light.
3. Next in day or morning/evening time lapses you want your ISO value as low as possible to keep noise levels down and image quality up.
4. Last setting is white balance it is one of the most crucial settings to the uniformity of your final product. To save time in post and IQ it's best to get it as close to right in camera as possible. You can either use a custom WB or use a preset that is close to the WB that you wish to achieve. I guarantee as you shoot the WB of your light will change from beginning to end. It can also cause a little color flicker between shots during clouds moving across the sun.
5. There are also a few other settings you may need to set.
a) Depending on what you will be doing with the photos in post you will want to change your image quality settings. I tend to always shoot in Full Res Raw files because I like the ability to edit and plus it allows for motion in post processing. But if memory or hard drive space is an issue or you want to shoot time-lapse at high speeds, jpg might be the better choice, you could even lower the resolution if you so choose. Even if you use small resolution on a 12 Mpix camera it shoots at 2256 x 1504 pixels which is 40% higher resolution than full HD at 1920x 1080 pixels. So if you aren’t planning on doing a lot of color or light adjustments or motion in your time lapse then it makes sense to use this. Also newer cameras have lower res RAW files and this goes with a similar idea to save space and you will still have full control of colors and light.
b) Different cameras have different features that may cause disunity of your exposure. Such highlight priority and so on. Also there are some custom settings regarding in camera noise reduction that you will want to turn off for low light time lapses.
D. Take some test shots. If you are waiting for the sunrise raise your ISO make sure your foreground looks good.
E. Triple Check to make sure your settings are right again!
F. Set your intervalometer (abbreviated=IV)
1. First figure out how much time you want to span and how many frames you want your time lapse to be. Most of the time I shoot for 24p so that means I need 24 frames for one second of time lapse footage. I usually try to gather 10 sec. of footage so that is 240 frames or photos. So that's easy. Next if I want to span an hour of time with my time lapse then I need to space those frames out evenly over an hour. I would use this equation 240 frames/60 min. = 4 frames per min./60 sec. = 15 sec per frame. So that means I need to set my intervalometer to cycle (exposure time + interval time = frame cycle) a frame every 15 seconds.
2. So I would either get to the IV feature on my camera or plug my IV into the camera and set it up according to that.
3. I would go to the frames and set it to 240
4. Then go to interval setting and set that to amount of interval time needed which would be the frame cycle time. But keep in mind when shooting long exposures that the camera will need to buffer (process and save data to the memory card) between shots. This usually takes 1-3 seconds but can take up to 10 or more seconds for very long high ISO shots. If there is not enough time between shots for the camera to buffer it will eventually start skipping frames to buffer as needed which will make the footage jumpy and will also result in a shorter than planned time-lapse.
5.
Make sure the exposure length setting is set to
zero. Unless shooting with the camera in bulb mode or HDR
this will not need to be used for your standard time lapse.
6. Then finally set the delay, which is the amount of delay between when you press start and when the shutter is engaged for the first time. I recommend at the minimum 5 secs. to make sure that any vibrations in your tripod have completely ceased.
G. Check your camera settings and IV one more time.
H. Turn off the camera display as well as the image review to save battery.
I. Press start on the intervalometer and it will begin counting down the delay time and when that reaches zero then the IV should start controlling the shutter.
1. *NOTE* If you are unsure of whether or not you set the interval time long enough to buffer between exposures set the delay to zero and let the IV run the shutter for 20-30 frames. If it makes it through those without skipping a frame the camera should keep up for the entirety of the time lapse.
IV.Begin Demonstration of Time Lapse
V. Set
Up For An HDR time lapse
A. There are only a couple different settings you need to change otherwise the set up is exactly the same.
B. First is in the camera, you need to set it up for bracketing. That is, it needs to automatically take an exposure at a certain Exposure value then minus a certain amount of exposure value (usually 1-2 stops of light) then stopped up that same amount of light the 2nd exposure is stopped down.
C. You may also want to use aperture priority mode if the light will be changing drastically during your time lapse e.g. a sunset or sunrise.
D. The next step is setting your intervalometer to take 3 shots only per cycle. The trick is setting the exposure length to a couple seconds or more depending on the length of the exposures that make up the brackets. Essentially it will hold the shutter release down for that time allowing the camera to take those exposures and stop (your camera shutters drive mode must be on multi exposure or burst mode).
E. Then set the interval length like you would in a normal time-lapse depending on the length of time you want to cover. *NOTE* It will take the camera longer to buffer after the 3 shots taken in quick succession as compared to just the one.
F.
You will then want to load these photos into
your computer and edit them with an HDR
processing software. I will touch on that a little more later.
G. Some things to consider.
1. If you are setting up for a sunset or something where the light is going to change drastically and using Aperture Priority to control the exposure value remember that you want to set the IV for the longest exposure length time you think it will take the camera to shoot all 3 shots. So if you anticipate that the longest exposure you will need is a 3 sec, a 1 sec, and 10 sec exposure, your exposure length (in the IV) time should be at least 14 sec.
2. Once you set your intervalometer as in any case you will not want to stop the sequence(or touch the camera more than is absolutely necessary) until it has finished so you want to make sure you have the above tip right.
3. The best parts of a sunrise/set usually happen the hour before and after the actual sunrise/set time. Be sure to be there and ready to capture it. The light changes in a matter of seconds.
VI.Set Up for a Motion Time Lapse
A. Adding motion to your time lapse is one way to give it just a little more spice and can be used to sync better with video music track. There are two ways
1. Motion Control Systems
a) This is something I pretty much have no experience with as I have never actually used motion time lapse systems. I do know they are rather expensive and unless you have a deep understanding of electronics and little bit of engineering it will be near impossible to build a DIY version. There are some cheap versions that can rotate the camera and follow the stars and so on. There are also a couple small rigs you can make from cooking timers for day time lapses with quick shutter speeds for cheap but if you want to do low light or sharp landscapes these kind of rigs are of no help.
b) There is also a lot of learning that would be involved in learning how to use one of these rigs as they have many ways of tracking through a sequence.
2. Post-Shooting Motion Editing
a) This method could be equally expensive if you do not already have a professional video editing program. But I am assuming most camps would have a higher level video editing program.
b) Before getting into software lets do as much in camera as possible first to improve our end result
c) Camera settings should be set to achieve highest clarity, lowest image file compression, and last but not least widest angle lens without distortion (or minimal).
d) Then
shoot your time lapse it can be either standard or HDR .
e) Load your photos and process them. I recommend lightroom or another program that can batch edit.
f) Load the processed photos into your video editing software (if your software allows make sure to fix the clip length so that each photo inserts into the sequence as only one frame in length)
g) Create 2 sequences.
(1) The first should be a custom sequence at the resolution of the photo files you will be importing for the sequence. Set the frame rate to your desired rate. ( I prefer 24p)
(2) The second sequence should be the resolution you want your final product to be at so if you want it to be 720p at 24p then you would set your resolution to 1280x720 and frame rate to 23.97.
h) Insert the photos into the full resolution sequence. Make sure all the photos are in order
i) Insert the full res sequence into your final product sequence.
j) As you will notice the picture will look very zoomed in. That’s because you are looking at an area of 2 million pixels out of the 12 million that make up a 12 MP full resolution image. You will need to shrink the scale of the image to make it fit better. But you don’t want to shrink it all the way because you want to leave room to move throughout the image to create the effect of the camera moving through the shot.
k) Then keyframe where you want your first frame to start on the full res sequence, go to your last frame, and keyframe where you want the full res sequence to stop. You now have a motion Time-Lapse shot.
l) A couple random tips…
(1) You can take a vertical (portrait orientation) shot and pan upwards through it. (Remember though if you shoot vertical you will need to make sure image file has enough resolution to fill a frame of the final product e.g. if your final product is going to be 1080p your image file will have to have a pixel height of at least 1920)
(2) You can keyframe scale to make it look like you are zooming in/out
(3) Combine zoom and pan to add even more attractive shots.
VII. How to set up and shoot a Hyperlapse Time-Lapse Sequence
A. Hyperlapse is essentially motion time lapse except that the camera moves a lot further than what a motion control rig will cover.
B. This method definitely will take a lot of planning and work to complete but they definitely turn out really awesome so it’s worth it.
C. You will need your camera, tripod, intervalometer, and a place where there is a way of measuring constant distance (e.g. tile floor) or you could use a rope pre-marked for even spacing over the distance you want to cover or a vehicle that can move at a very constant speed without much vibration.
D. Then you need to figure out what you want the main subject to be or what the camera will remain pointed at throughout the time lapse. Perhaps it’s just a point on the horizon or maybe it’s a building or an entrance to a building. This will be easy if your camera has a live view option.
E. Then figure out the track of the camera and how to move the camera the same distance between each shot.
F. Then get your camera to the right exposure settings
G. Do a practice run for several shots to get a feel for how long it will take to move and reset and let the camera settle and take the shot.
H. You then want to set your intervalometer to give enough time to reset and let your camera settle.
I. Then you go through and start the shooting making each transition as smoothly and as quickly as possible.
J. Otherwise, you would process it as normal
VIII. Here are some different tips and settings to use for some different situations.
A. Sunrise/set
1. Sunrise/sets can be some of the most dramatic time lapses out there given the right conditions.
2. You should always find the spot you want to shoot from in advance of the sunrise/set.
3. Try aiming to the left or right or even completely opposite of the sunrise/set. Some of the most beautiful colors occur opposite the sunset. Reflections of the clouds in the water also make for a dramatic effect.
4. Try using a solid ND filter to give yourself longer exposures especially where water or clouds are involved.
5. Polarizers also can make colors more vibrant.
6.
A graduated ND filter can give a single exposure
(non HDR ) time lapse far greater dynamic
range giving the sky a darker exposure allowing for a brighter exposure of the
ground and trees.
7.
Often times HDR
is best used during a sunrise/set. As it has a similar effect to the graduated
ND filter giving you far greater dynamic range.
8. When it comes to camera settings a warmer white balance is good. It will bring the reds and oranges out.
9.
Also something to consider is shooting in AV
(aperture priority) mode (for both standard and HDR )
this way your camera will automatically adjust to the lighting. It may add a
little flicker to your time lapse but for the most part that will clean up by
using frame blending in post processing. In the end it gives you a far greater
transition.
10. Sunrises/sets are some of the hardest to find the best exposure for because the light changes fast and often, so practice!
B. People Moving
1. Entry ways and other high traffic areas make for cool photos of people coming in and out of the shot.
2. I recommend longer shutter speed for these probably about 1/60th of a second to give moving people a little motion blur.
C. Stars/Milky Way
1. Night Time Lapses can be tricky as they require a lot more time, a little more experimenting, and experience to know the best settings.
2. Settings will vary depending upon the maximum aperture of the lens, how well the camera processes high ISO sensitivity and the amount of light in the sky at night.
3.
You will definitely want to plan out in advance
for shooting things like the milky way or shadows cast by the moon. As the
milky way and moon are obviously not always going to be in the same spot. The
milky way is not in the same place at midnight
in mid June as it is at midnight in
mid August. It also changes the angle it’s at throughout the night and over
time. Luckily it follows the same paths every year so you can predict where it
will be with a few different resources out there.
4. Another thing you will have to plan on is what phase the moon is in. If it is full (or near full) do not expect to get a brightly exposed milky way or stars. The moon lights up our atmosphere causing the light from the star and milky way to be drowned out. This is doubly true if it is a humid summer night but also less true on a crisp winter night.
5. Another thing that will affect your ability to photograph the night sky is light pollution. In other words city lights. The further away from city lights you are the clearer the night sky becomes.
6. Finally before we discuss camera settings there is one more thing to consider… the earth’s rotation. As the earth rotates our view of the stars move. Which means that you can only photograph the stars so long before they start to become a streak of light rather than a round normal looking star. To figure this out we need to use the rule of 500. Which is if your exposure is longer than 500 divided by your focal length then the stars will appear to streak. For example I shoot with an 11mm lens on 1.6 crop frame which equals 17mm so I would take 500/17=29.41 sec.. 29.41 sec. Is the longest exposure I can shoot without the stars starting to appear oblong. I shoot 30 secs and the oblongness of the star is very minuscule but is noticeable if you’re a crazy pixel peeper like me(but for the purposes of shooting stills for time lapse a tiny bit of oblongness will go unnoticed). So now that we know the longest exposure we can use we can move to setting the rest of our settings. For Milky Way shots you will want to use the longest exposure possible.
7. First off aperture, the widest aperture is going to be your best bet. If your lens is very soft at its maximum aperture stop it down 1/3 maybe 2/3s of a stop of light at most but you want your sensor to get as much light as possible.
8. Also usually the more you can see of the night sky in your field of view, the better.
9. Next up is ISO. This will totally be dependent on your cameras ability to suppress noise during exposures. Some cameras can handle ISO 6400 some can hardly handle ISO 800. Usually the best way to figure it out is 1 or 2 stops of light worth of ISO down from your camera’s max ISO is about the best your camera will do for balance of exposure and image quality.
10. Finally you want to get your camera to produce as raw an image as possible. What I mean is if you can turn off any extra features that cause the camera to have to do anything other than save the image in camera turn them off. Any of these features will add to the amount of time it takes your camera to write the image to your memory card which will mean a greater interval between shots. Which means more time to take the time lapse and could cause you to miss a meteor streaking the sky or something like that.
11. Lastly a couple things to note pretty much any night you shoot you will need to keep your lens warmer then the air temp. If you do not you will end up with either a foggy or frosty lens either of which will destroy a time lapse. There is a simple, cheap solution. Hand warmers. Find a way to strap one to your lens barrel and you will never deal with a foggy or frosty lens again. If you can’t grab any get something to act as a lens hood or something to keep moisture from landing on the front lens element (just make sure it doesn’t end up in your shot). Which leads me to my last thing to note.
12. Some people think you could just swap UV filters and keep shooting. For one, that could cause you to bump the camera causing your shot to move and a very jumpy time lapse. Two, UV filters cause light distortion at night. It will show up as centrifugal rings it’s noticeable especially in time lapses because everything will be moving but the rings of darker exposure. So definitely remove any filters when shooting night time lapses.
13. There are a few tutorials listed in the resources that go more in depth especially when it comes to processing milky way shots.
D. Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights)
1.
The hardest part of shooting the aurora is
figuring out when they will happen they don’t happen every night. They don’t
even happen every week. For us in Minnesota
during the peak of the solar cycle you could get lucky at most 2-3 times in a
month. Usually though it’s about 1 every other month. I won’t get into details
about forecasting northern lights because that is an entire seminar on its own.
Check the resources under northern lights and read as much you can on them as
possible talk to other people that chase the lights and so on. The lights are
elusive at best!
2. Essentially a lot of the things we just discussed for stars and the milky way apply to time lapsing the aurora. Factors like the moon phase, light pollution, humidity, rule of 500, and so on will all still play a role in properly exposing the aurora.
3. The one difference is though the aurora move a lot faster than the stars appear to so you want to use as short of a shutter speed as possible to keep movement to be as realistic as possible. (It looks better trust me)
4. So when it comes to camera settings the same idea as photographing the stars comes into play, go for the best exposure while keeping image quality high.
5. Another thing is you want to fix your white balance. I set mine for the florescent preset if the moon Is out or daylight if the moon is not. These won’t get you spot on but they will get you close which means minimal distortion from adjustments.
6. Aperture is the same as stars wide as possible stopped down only a little if absolutely necessary.
7. ISO should be set to whatever the highest ISO your camera will process the best.
8.
Exposure should be set last as it will be
variable against how much light the other settings bring in and how bright the
aurora are. Keep in mind what is forecasted for that night. If a CME
from a giant flare is inbound then be prepared for fast, bright, high in the
sky, aurora displays. If it’s a small coronal hole bringing in the solar winds
for the night prepare for dim, slow, low on the horizon, aurora displays.
9. Like mentioned with the stars you want as raw of an image as possible especially with Aurora Time Lapse the less time between shots the smoother and more stunning it will look.
10. Keep filters off the lens and heaters on. Especially during high sky display your lens will fog up quickly pointing upwards if there is no heat on your lens.
11. If you want to time lapse both the aurora and milky way it is possible from late fall to early summer but usually won’t work when there are very bright displays. You will need to expose the milky way so you will need longer exposures which will mean less definition to the lights but it looks very dramatic so it’s worth it!
12.
Last tip be patient! Sometimes shooting the Aurora
doesn’t go as planned or they don’t flare up right away. Twice, just as I was
about to pack up for the night the lights flared up and I got to see some of
the most amazing displays I have ever seen.
E. Star Trails Time Lapse
1. Star Trail Time Lapses are easy to shoot and easy to edit especially if you get the free star stacking software and leave you with a very eye catching time lapse.
2. Essentially shooting a star trail time lapse works the same as getting a time lapse of the milky way.
3. You need an exposure time just over your rule of 500 result. So in my instance I shoot 40 sec exposures. This will most likely require you to use a bulb mode and an intervalometer to repeatedly get the same shutter timing.
4. Aperture is just like any other night time lapse shots.
5. White Balance should be constant. I usually set a custom white balance to get a decently balanced shot and then I know the white balance will remain the same all the way through the shot.
6. ISO on the other hand is open to change. If you want to see tons of stars and a bit of the milky-ness of the Milky Way trailing through the shot then keep your ISO high but if you want to throttle down the amount of stars a bit bring your ISO down a stop or two. When shooting at high ISO speeds the longer star trails can get pretty busy so sometimes its not a bad thing to drop the ISO get better defined trails.
7. When setting your intervalometer you will need to set your exposure length for how long you want to expose for then set for the interval time according to how long your camera will take to buffer.
8. I know I have said before to make sure your camera saves the least processed file to the card and especially in this instance it is the most important because if you don’t make the quickest interval time possible your star trails will look bumpy and awkward.
9. Saying that, I should also mention the obvious, the longer the exposure you take the longer it will take your camera to write the file to the memory card.
10. Next you will want to process your photos so they look the way you want them to look.
11. If you want to cover more time with your star trail time lapse you can use longer exposure time just remember not to make it too long or you will end up with gaps in your trails because of prolonged buffer times
12. Then you can do two things you can both put them in a star stacking program like Starstax and have it save after each stack and then take those photos and put them in a sequence or you can make a sequence of the non stacked images and use cc time blend in adobe after effects. There are a couple tutorials in the resources section below that show how both work.
F. Waterscapes/Clouds/Fog
1. Another thing that can make for interesting time lapse are other natural objects that move such as the fog, clouds, or water.
2.
Capturing
these different things will strictly depend on the effect you want to create.
3.
You
can create normal clouds moving across the sky quite easily. But you could make
clouds appear more like a stream by using a 10 stop ND filter. You can create
similar effects with fog.
4.
Depending
on what kind of body of water you want to time lapse you create a host of
different effects. Rivers can turn into flickering light or you can shorten your
exposure length and give it more motion. Waves can move fast across the water
or you can really lengthen the exposure and give the water calmer more flowing
look. It all comes down to experimenting.
G.
Changing
Seasons,
1.
Summer
to Fall, Fall to Winter, Winter to Spring, and Spring back to Summer all can be
filmed using time-lapse
specifically long term time lapse rigs. Again as with all of this, experiment with
it.
IX.
How
to make a stack of time lapse photos into a time lapse video.
A.
As
I have already explained essentially all the photos you take in series need to
be arranged into a slide show except a slide show that cycles through each
"slide" very quickly much like a flip book animation.
B.
This
can be easy and fast or it can be complicated and can be a rather long process.
The later will obviously bring about better results.
C. There are a couple different workflows you could follow so I will chart them by the way I know of.
1.
Simple
2. High Quality Quick
3. High Quality Advanced
4.
High
Quality HDR
D.
You
can obviously get a lot more advanced in your processing than even the advanced
work flow displayed above it comes down to creativity, time, and
experimentation. There are several solid tutorials on these workflows listed in
the resources that would be an excellent place to begin if this is all new to
you.
X. Conclusion
A.
As
you may notice there are some key factors for making a good time lapse.
1.
Good
Composition
2.
The
Right Settings
3.
Planning
4.
Experimentation
5.
Above
all else creation and innovation
B.
Mix
all of these things and you will have a beautifully unique, attention grabbing
time lapse.
C.
A
time lapse that will make people excited about spending time at your camp and
that will bring glory to God through
that and just by the display of his glory which is evident as we watch his
creation in action.
D. Thank you for listening. I hope this was helpful and not shot over your heads.
And now that you have endured all of that here is the 2nd sneak peak at my very first time lapse compilation...
Thanks for checking this all out! Be sure to like my facebook page if you haven't already!
